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Pattern grader

  • Hours

    37-39 per week

  • Starting salary

    £12,000 + per year



The work

Pattern graders are an important link between the design and manufacturing stages of clothing production. They produce scaled-up and scaled-down versions of original patterns made by a pattern cutter. This allows manufacturers to make the same garment in different sizes.

As a pattern grader, you would use two main methods for grading or resizing patterns:

  • laying the pattern on a digitising table, tracing its outline with a light pen, taking measurements at key points so the computer can adjust the size and proportions
  • tracing the outline with scanning equipment, which produces extremely accurate copies that can be scaled to size.

Most of your work would be done with computer software packages, which are gradually replacing traditional hand-draughting techniques and size charts.

The final part of your job would be to check that the computerised pattern correlates to the original. You would then send a copy to the manufacturer in the correct format for their fabric-cutting machinery.

The pattern grader's job is often combined with pattern cutting. See the Pattern Cutter job profile for more details about this role.


Hours

You would normally work 37 to 39 hours a week, Monday to Friday. You could be based in a workshop, or in a part of the main factory where the clothes are made.

You may work as part of a team alongside pattern cutters and sample machinists.


Income

  • Starting salaries can be between £12,000 and £15,000 a year.
  • Experienced graders can earn around £25,000 a year.

Multi-skilled graders working for specialist or luxury clothing companies may earn more.

Figures are intended as a guideline only.


Entry requirements

A common way into this career is to start work as a pattern grading assistant. With training and experience, you could eventually work your way up to pattern grader.

You may be able to get into this career through an Apprenticeship with a clothing manufacturer or fashion design company. To get on to a scheme, employers will usually ask for at least four GCSEs (grades A-C), including maths, English and design and technology, or equivalent qualifications.

The range of Apprenticeships available in your area will depend on the local jobs market and the types of skills employers need from their workers. To find out more about Apprenticeships, visit the Apprenticeships website.

You could also get into pattern grading after completing a foundation degree, BTEC HND or degree in clothing technology and production. The following universities also offer fashion design courses that will teach you the key technical skills required: (links open in new window)

To search for foundation degrees, HNDs and degrees, see the University and Colleges Admissions Service (UCAS) website.


Training and development

You would usually be trained on the job, under the supervision of experienced staff. You could work towards a number of qualifications, including:

  • NVQ in Manufacturing Sewn Products at Level 2
  • NVQ in Apparel Manufacturing Technology at Level 3
  • ABC Award in Fashion and Textiles at Level 3.

The London College of Fashion offers part-time and intensive courses in subjects like pattern cutting/grading, which may be suitable for fashion graduates looking to improve their career prospects. See the website for more information on courses.

The Textile Institute is a professional body that represents the clothing and apparel industry. They offer a range of professional qualifications, at Fellowship, Associateship and Licentiateship level. See the Textile Institute website for more details.


Skills and knowledge

  • an interest in fashion and trends
  • the ability to work quickly and accurately
  • good maths skills for measurements and calculations
  • an eye for detail, shape and proportion
  • technical drawing skills
  • IT skills
  • good concentration levels
  • excellent practical ability
  • good teamworking skills

More information

Textile Institute (Opens new window)
1st Floor
St James's Buildings
Oxford Street
Manchester
M1 6FQ
Tel: 0161 237 1188
www.textileinstitute.org

Creative Skillset Careers (Opens new window)
Tel: 08080 300 900 (England and Northern Ireland)
Tel: 0845 850 2502(Scotland)
Tel: 08000 121 815 (Wales)
www.creativeskillset.org/careers

Creative Skillset (Opens new window)
Focus Point
21 Caledonian Road
London
N1 9GB
www.creativeskillset.org


Opportunities

Typical employers range from designer labels to high-street fashion retailers. You will have an advantage when looking for work if you also know pattern cutting.

Jobs are advertised in the press, Jobcentre Plus and on company websites.

With experience, you could be promoted to head pattern grader. Alternatively, you could move into the design or buying side after further training.

You may find the following useful for job vacancies and general reading (links open in new window):

Drapers Online (Opens new window)
The Textile Institute (Opens new window)
Directgov (Opens new window) - (Jobseekers page)

Job profiles are based on the latest information supplied to us by industry bodies, such as Sector Skills Councils. Please be aware that with the introduction of the Qualifications and Credit Framework (Opens in a new window) there has been, and will continue to be, changes to vocational qualifications. For more information, please check with industry bodies directly.

We do not accept responsibility for the content of external sites.


Related industry information

Industry summary

The apparel industry is part of the fashion and textiles sector, represented by Creative Skillset, which also includes: apparel; textiles; and footwear and leather; advertising; animation; computer games; facilities; film; interactive media; photo imaging; publishing; radio; and television. The fashion and textiles sector as a whole employs an estimated 340,000 people across 79,000 enterprises, which are predominately small and medium sized employers. The sector contributes around £10 billion to the UK economy each year, but due to the current economic downturn, product exports have fallen. However, employment in the sector has remained relatively stable level.

The apparel industry includes the manufacture of: knitwear; hosiery; apparel or clothing such as workwear, underwear and outerwear; plus the wholesale of clothing. Recent manufacturing output of the industry has declined, but productivity has risen where it has remained virtually static across the wider manufacturing sector. Clothing and footwear prices have fallen. Suppliers of niche and luxury brands, such as cashmere and premium fashion garments, are reportedly doing well.

Key facts:

  • The industry contributes almost £4.8bn to the UK economy each year.
  • Around 156,000 people are employed in the industry with around 20,000 of these using design skills as part of their work.
  • There are around 35,000 businesses, of which around 23,000 are sole traders.
  • There are around 2,000 design consultancies in the industry, employing around 4,000 people.
  • The businesses in this industry tend to be small or medium-sized, employing 250 people or fewer.

Jobs in the industry range from:

  • Operative level staff – sewing machinist, garment cutter, garment presser, knitting operative, knitwear linker
  • Craftspeople and designer-makers – handcraft tailor, milliner, couturier
  • Higher level, technical personnel – designer, garment technologist, sample technician, pattern cutter, pattern grader
  • Production managers – production manager, technical managers, production co-ordinator, manufacture co-ordinator

National and regional data

The clothing industry is widely distributed across England, but with key clusters:

  • clothing manufacture in Leicester, Nottingham, London
  • knitwear in Leicestershire and Nottinghamshire
  • wholesale of clothing in London, Manchester and Leeds

Across all regions it is estimated that there will be a substantial decline in the total level of employment in the industry to 2017.

East Midlands – There are around 17,000 people employed, making it the second most important region for apparel employment in England. Leicester has the largest industry workforce, followed by Erewash (Derbyshire) and Nottingham.

East of England – There are around 7,000 people employed within the industry in the region, who are mainly located in Luton, Fenland (Cambs), Basildon, Hertsmere and St Albans.

London – London is a key area for clothing manufacture and the wholesale of clothing in the apparel industry, with around 24,000 people employed, making it the largest region for apparel in the UK. Within this area, Westminster has the largest number of people employed in the apparel industry, followed by Tower Hamlets and Islington.

North East – There are around 4,000 people employed within the industry in the North East, which represents a small proportion of the total UK employment in this sector. Sunderland has the largest number of people employed, followed by County Durham. An estimated 1,000 recruits will be required in manufacturing positions to 2017 in the region.

North West – There are around 15,000 people employed within the industry, with the largest share located in Manchester. Stockport, Rochdale, East Cheshire and Blackburn are the other main centres in the region.

South East – There are around 5,000 people employed within the apparel industry in the region. Havant has the largest industry workforce in the region, with most of the remainder split fairly evenly between Milton Keynes, Chichester, Guildford and Southampton.

South West – There are around 6,000 people employed within the industry, who are mainly located in South Gloucestershire. Other key centres include Swindon, Cornwall, Bristol and Bath.

West Midlands – There are over 6,000 people employed within the industry. Birmingham has the largest number of people employed in the apparel industry followed by Sandwell.

Yorkshire and the Humber – There are over 10,000 people employed within the industry, making it one of the largest regions for apparel in the UK. Leeds has the largest number of people employed in the apparel industry then Kirklees and Bradford.

[N.B. Data derived from Annual Business Inquiry, 2007.]


Career paths


Further sources


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